Leek + Pear + Chanterelle Toasts

I love rituals. When the week gets crazy, I can count on a few constants to keep my feet on the ground: exercise, packing a lunch, a phone call home, a big hug from Shaun when I walk in the door. Sunday rituals are the most important. For me, rituals are more than routine or repeated habits, they can be activities that help define our values and reestablish a connection to self, loved ones, and the planet at large.

When we started fostering rescue dogs back in June, we began dedicating Sunday mornings to a long walk from our house down to the harbor. It helped socialize the dogs, but looking back I think it helped us more than our animal friends. On the way I’d pick up a coffee, Shaun would get apple juice and a croissant (or two) at the local café near our house. By the time we reached the water, my coffee was the perfect temperature and the dogs were ready for a rest. We’d sit on the benches in the shade and watch the banana barges from Central America unload shipping crates onto naked big-rig trailers on the dock. Shaun let me express my abhorrence for the free-trade agreements and cheap labor that brought the bananas here in the first place, but we both knew I needed the barges to be faithful on Sundays. Walking to see them was an oddly cathartic process. There was no past, no future. Just the dogs, the coffee, and the bananas.

It’s been almost a month since we’ve had a quiet Sunday morning to walk to the harbor and I’ve found myself searching for something constant that can replace or substitute for those few certain, perfect, hours. Time slips like sand through my fingers, as of late. This weekend we traveled north to visit my parents where Shaun filmed a bit for my mom’s nonprofit, Wellness Within. Chilly walks, Jon Stewart re-runs, thoughtful conversation, and waking up in my old bedroom to the sound of rain falling on the skylight was ritual enough to keep me in step for a while.

After a day in transit, no one really wants to work that hard in the kitchen. These simple, luscious toasts are the “welcome back” we needed today. As much as I love kale, it really can’t say “I love you” like these can. (wink).

Leek, Pear, and Chanterelle Toasts

  • 4-6 thick slices country levain bread
  • 4-5 cups sliced leeks (whites + just a touch of green)
  • 1 comice pear, diced with skins on
  • 1 small cipollini onion, minced
  • 4-5 tbsp (good) olive oil
  • 1/4 cup white wine
  • salt + pepper to taste
  • goat cheese to spread
Turn on this playlist. Bring a saucepan pan with a few lugs of olive oil to  medium heat and add leeks, stirring to coat and wilt for 3-5 minutes. Add finely diced pears, stir in the white wine, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and let simmer for about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to very low. In a second, smaller pan, mix finely sliced chanterelles and the cipollini with another lug of olive oil. Put on heat, and let simmer and reduce for 5-10 minutes. Slice bread, and throw under the broiler of your oven for just a few minutes until the edges crisp up.
Smear some goat cheese on the toasts, then pile with the leek mixture, then top with chanterelles and juices. Don’t take yourself so seriously, eat with your hands and let it get messy on the plate. Enjoy.
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Root + Fennel + Apple Gratin

It was dark by the time we had made our evening plans. The first full, sensory day in Chennai, India (October 2010), had exhausted our bodies, but not our spirits. After two months at sea the intensity of our eagerness had only multiplied. We headed back out into the loud, chaotic night by rickshaw, four to a vehicle. Buzzing down the dusty road, a friend took to some customary banter with the barefoot driver about the fare. In a cacophony of disagreement our drivers pulled to the curb, leaving us to regroup.

In an instant it happened. I hopped out of the rickshaw and up onto the narrow sidewalk to avoid oncoming traffic, took two steps forward, and fell straight down into an uncovered hole of sewage. Tar, feces, dirt, trash, runoff – yes, Slumdog Millionaire status. Everyone was stunned. I was stunned. I caught myself by my elbows on the asphalt ledge and was able to push myself up and out quickly. Completely soaked and covered from my bust down I stood there, feeling an odd sense of calm. I checked for cuts and blood. Nothing. No broken bones, no missing teeth.

Nalgene bottles were emptied onto my legs and feet and a few friends took my splattered bag and scarf. I took off my shoes and hailed the rickshaws back to help, a few of us slid in and sped back to the ship. Racing through security and up the gangway, the only thing I knew to do was laugh. I was in India, covered in sewage, but I was going to be okay. My friends were flabbergasted, but I knew that cultivating a sense of lightness would be the only way to keep my sanity in check. Back to my cabin, I ripped off my clothes in a scorching hot shower and scrubbed like something fierce. After my third shampoo cycle I leaned against the wall and realized I was shaking. The adrenaline was starting to wear off, and emotion began to override my initial mode of pragmatism and optimism. Deep breath. You made it.

Our nature, our strength is so often revealed to us in an instance of crisis – something that sneaks up on us and forces us to react without second thought, without advance notice or deliberation. More often than not our impulsive responses to these critical moments surprise us, in a good way. Standing up to the bully, embracing the friend who’s hurting, remaining calm when the front tire blows out… these action-moments are flashes of insight to our true character.

Only in retrospect do these brave reactions appear significant; for in the moment we are just doing what we must to cope, to support, or just to keep it together. It wasn’t until a few weeks later after the India incident when I was in Vietnam did it occur to me how “prepared” I was for the whole thing; lifting myself out of the hole without a complete collapse of my psyche. Panic wasn’t an option. Fear wasn’t an option. My intuition kicked in and the peaceful, assertive, confident, capable juices just flowed.

The lesson: you’re stronger than you think. When you find yourself in the thick of it (literally or figuratively), have faith that your mind and body will know what to do. It’s all in there. We forget sometimes that it is. But you’ll be ready. Trust me.

Roots, Fennel, and Apple Gratin

  • 1 large celery root (celeriac)
  • 1 large rutabaga
  • 6-8 parsnips
  • 2 Fuji apples
  • 2 large sweet onions
  • 4 large fennel bulbs
  • ½ cup heavy cream
  • 1 cup vegetable stock
  • olive oil, salt, pepper
  • 1 sourdough boulé

I tend to prefer roasted fennel and caramelized onions amidst the layers of raw root vegetables that bake together later, so it’s safe to start there. Cut fennel bulbs into thirds, separating layers and tossing with olive oil, salt, and pepper on a baking sheet covered with parchment. Bake at 350’ for 10 minutes, then broil for 2-3 extra minutes at the end to brown. Set aside. Thinly slice onions and sauté over high heat with a few tablespoons of olive oil until soft, brown, and delicious. Set aside.

Peel celery root, rutabaga, and parsnips. Remove woody core of the parsnips, slicing thin strips around it. Use a mandolin or food processor with the celery root and rutabaga to create thin slices. Throw together in a bowl. Peel and core apples. Slice thin. Are you getting the “slice thin” memo at this point? Wink wink.

Up the oven temperature to 450’. In a gratin dish, begin the layering process with the celery root, overlapping to get a nice thick base. Then begin to layer the remaining ingredients. From the bottom up, I layered celery root, apples, rutabaga, roasted fennel, parsnips, and then caramelized onion with a dash of salt and pepper between each layer. In a small bowl, combine cream and vegetable stock. Pour over vegetable mixture, cover tightly with tin foil, and bake for 45 minutes.

While the veggies bake. Cut up day-old sourdough bread into cubes. Toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread onto a baking sheet. Bake beneath the gratin for 20 minutes until golden and crispy. Let cool, then blitz in a food processor until you have a coarse crumb. Set aside.

After 45 minutes, remove gratin from oven and uncover. Spread an even layer of crumb over the top, pressing down to absorb some of the liquid. Return to the oven and bake for 10 minutes, turning on the broiler for the last 2-3 minutes to brown the top.

Let rest for at least 10 minutes before serving.

Let Them See You

I was seventeen, Shaun was closing in on nineteen when we went to the cabin. The idea wasn’t our own, rather a gentle nudge from a friend who knew we needed that trip more than we realized at the time. I’m thankful for his wisdom. Although we had been dating for nearly a year, I don’t think it was until that trip that we really saw each other. Saw each other’s heart; the joy and pain and the fear that lay tucked beneath the surface, the façade we for different reasons clung to.

There were swings at the cabin, up the hill from lakeshore. It was barely raining that day, and we sat on the swings and let the wind fill the silence between us. We were both confused. I remember starting to cry, feeling that nudge again coming with the rain.  Shaun turned to me and said “you’ve got to let me in.”

I attempted to start this post with a question, how many people in your life really see you? Following it with another, now how many people do you really see? I felt stuck — wanting to make a point about how often we go through the weeks and months surrounded by people believing we see them and know them, when in reality we don’t really at all. But that would be the obvious question.

I dropped Shaun off at the airport earlier in the morning and felt a pang of sadness that we will be spending another one of his birthdays apart. The morning was crisp when we hugged goodbye, and the clouds considered a bout of rain. I drove away and thought of the cabin. Five years. It felt like a long time ago. I thought about how far we’ve come as individuals, as a couple. I thought about what today would have been like if we had put off that trip to Alaska and his grandparents cabin.

The better question is this, who do you let see you? Why do you (we) hold back from allowing people to really see us for who we really are? We must work to be present and truly see others, but we must also work to trust that it’s okay to let others see our own true selves too. It’s scary. I know. But we may be seen when we let ourselves be seen. Maybe not always, but when we do, there will be opportunity and occasion for people who do want to see us, and we will not feel alone.

To make Pumpkin Gnocchi, you’ve got to use your inherent culinary intuition. Pumpkins come in all shapes and sizes, so it’s difficult to quantify ingredients without knowing the variety you’ve chosen and how much it will yield. Here are some rough guidelines:

Pumpkin Gnocchi

  • 1/2 of one med/large cooking pumpkin, we like Musquee De Provence
  • 2 (ish) cups of unbleached white whole wheat flour
  • 1 egg, or 2 if your pumpkin gives you more than 2 cups puree
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • 4 tbsp butter
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • A few sprigs of thyme
  • (optional) freshly grated parmesan

Cut open your pumpkin and scoop out the seeds and stringy bits. Wrap one half, and store for later. Cut remaining half into slices like you would a cantaloupe. Depending on your variety, you may be able to peel the skin, otherwise carefully remove with a knife and cut skinless pumpkin into 1″ cubes.

Toss pumpkin into a large saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil and cook until just softened, adding more water if necessary. Strain softened pumpkin into a large colander, and again through a fine mesh sieve a few cups at a time, pressing out the liquid with a wooden spoon or spatula. Resturn mashed pumpkin to the dry saucepan and add a pat or two of butter. Return to the stove over low heat for about 5 minutes to just melt the butter and evaporate the remaining water. Transfer to a food processor and blitz until smooth. While blitzing, bring a large pot of water to a boil.

Turn pureed pumpkin into a large bowl. Add egg(s) and salt and pepper before folding in the flour, 1/2 cup at a time. When you have added enough flour to produce a dough like consistency and forms a ball, turn out the ball onto a floured surface and knead a few times, adding a bit of flour if needed, until the dough no longer sticks to your hands. Take a small section of the dough and roll out into a thin rope. Cut into 1″ sections and make indents on four sides with a wet fork. Repeat with remaining dough. Warning, this makes A LOT. Place half of the finished gnocchi on a floured baking sheet and freeze for up to two hours before placing them together in a freezer bag.

Place gnocchi a dozen at a time in the boiling water. Cook until they all float to the top. Meanwhile, bring a saucepan with butter, olive oil, salt, pepper, and thyme to medium heat until the butter melts and you’ve coaxed the aroma out of the herbs. Set aside. Repeat boil process with remaining gnocchi. Toss in the butter/oil mixture, and enjoy.

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Guest Post at “Healthy Green Kitchen”

Just a sneak peek here today, you can catch the recipe and full post for this soupy ribollita of sorts over at the Healthy Green Kitchen. Winnie keeps a fabulous blog packed with healthful recipes and anecdotes of a life well-lived. The messy, real, maddening, honest sort of living that I happen to be drawn to. I turn to her August ’11 post, On Being Real, from time to time when I need a laugh and a reminder to set down the backpack of voices and preoccupations for being “perfect.” What is that thing, perfect, anyway?

At HGK you can read about what having a healthy, green kitchen means to me. It’s messy, it’s not perfect, but it’s real. The pictures and words you see on these pages are born from a tiny, but energy packed space that brings me more joy and happiness than most parts of the city I currently call home. Pictures, ticket stubs, and hand me downs — there is more to a healthy, green kitchen than what’s in the fridge.

Famine, Food, Justice

There will be no pumpkin bread in this week’s post. No cinnamon-sugar scones, honeycrisp apples, rutabaga mash, baked spinach, and definitely no butternut squash gratin. But there will be F-75, F-100, and Plumpy’nut. This is what food aid looks like in the Horn of Africa right now. Keep Reading…

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